The Importance Of Preparation – An Interview With Michael Riffle
I missed out on getting the shot above but it wasn’t for chance of a fair warning. Over on Google+, Michael Riffle posted information about a photowalk at Alki Point in West Seattle for an upcoming full moon. He had the location and time dialed in and seemed to know what he was after. The photo above is what resulted from that admittedly lucky December evening in Seattle. More than just a great moon photo, the image speaks to the importance of preparation and planning in certain aspects of photography.
Michael was nice enough to submit to a short email interview and pass on how he planned for and took the shot. You can follow more of Michael’s inspiring photos via his Google+ account. Oh! And if you’re in Seattle and want to meet up for a chance at the next full moon on January 7th, check out this post and leave a comment.
The shot of the moon rising behind Seattle, perfectly framed between two buildings, was not by chance. Did you see this shot before? Or were you starting from scratch?
It’s funny, about the time I started thinking about whether or not getting this shot was possible, I came across an image that showed the full moon near downtown when viewed from this location (but not between two buildings). Obviously the moon in that photo is not in the exact position it is in this photo, but I knew the shot was theoretically possible and that I definitely wanted to put my own stamp on it. From there, I set about planning out the shot.
How did you figure out the best timing for a moon shot like this?
Three words: The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE). For a landscape photographer, this is an absolutely indispensible tool. I used TPE on my iPad to line up where the moon should be so it would appear directly behind downtown when viewed from the Alki area of West Seattle and searched for dates when the full moon would be rising near this location. As it turns out, only the three full moons, or so, clustered around the Winter solstice will work for this shot.
Once I got onsite, I used an iPhone app called Star Walk that superimposes astronomical objects with what the iPhone camera is seeing. You can use this to see the trajectory of the moon before it rises and try position yourself so that the moon is an ideal location to get your shot when it rises to the right height.
But all the technology in the world isn’t going to do you any good unless the weather cooperates, and in Seattle, the weather in the Winter months isn’t exactly reliable when it comes to ideal moon photographing conditions. To get this shot, I actually had to go a day earlier than I had planned because the conditions were forecast to be clear that evening, and miserable the next evening.
Were you able to set your exposure before the moon made an appearance or did you have to adjust on the fly?
As it turns out, I was able to set the exposure before the moon made an appearance, but I didn’t expect that to be able to. The horizon was quite hazy, and I honestly wasn’t sure I was even going to be able to see the moon, let alone know how bright to expect it to be! And the light of the setting sun was still directly on parts of the faces of the buildings in the shot, creating wicked glare off of the glass and the water. I spent my time before the moon appeared shooting the buildings and adjusting my exposure for the buildings, and adjusting the angle and polarizing filter to try to minimize glare off of the glass and water.
When the moon did appear, the haze on the horizon coupled with the fact that the buildings still had light on them, minimized the dynamic range in the frame and allowed the whole scene to be exposed correctly based on my pre-moon testing on the buildings.
In the shot, where were you metering for proper exposure?
I am reasonably sure I was using the center-weighted average metering mode, which meters the whole scene but gives the most weight to light levels near the center of the frame. I was shooting in aperture-priority mode and metered on the center of the scene in the shot. However, after initial metering I did manually adjust the exposure up or down until I achieved the exposure I wanted for the shot. I also bracketed -/+ 1 EV.
What post process was needed to bring about the final shot?
The scene was correctly exposed in a single exposure, but I blended 3 exposures (-1, 0, +1) anyway because I thought I could achieve better and more natural-looking contrast in post processing. The exposures were blended using the Enfuse plugin for Lightroom and adjustments were made in Lightroom, mostly to enhance contrast and details.
You have the advantage of living close to where you took your shot. Do you employ any tools when traveling for photography and anticipate a particular shot?
Before going anywhere, I search sites like Flickr for inspirational shots of the location and start forming ideas of where I’d like to shoot. From there, I use tools like The Photographer’s Ephemeris for planning shots based on sunset and sunrise times, moonset and moonrise times, angle of the sun relative to my subjects, and the position of the moon. And when on location, my iPhone and its many apps for showing tide information, meteorological information (i.e., weather forecasts, current conditions, sunrise/sunset times), and maps is quite useful for making decisions in the field.
Any other advice on moon photos or shooting in Seattle?
The moon moves faster than you think! If you’re planning on shooting the moon rising with items in the foreground, like buildings, be ready! It always seems to pop up when you’re not looking, and you’ll be shocked by how fast it moves relative to your stationary foreground. You have a very limited amount of time to get the shot you’ve been planning, so you have to be set and ready to go the second the moon appears.
As far as Seattle goes… just be ready for the weather to have different ideas than you have.
Conditions are not often ideal, especially in the Fall and Winter months, and when they are, they can change (literally) with a moment’s notice. Waste no time getting your shot, pay very close attention to weather forecasts, and always be prepared to spend time shooting something other than what you necessarily had planned at a specific location.
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
The Importance Of Preparation – An Interview With Michael Riffle
How To Design And Shoot A Long Term Photography Project
Personal photography projects are the spice of life between the humdrum of every day life and shooting. As a professional, there are subjects I shoot because I’m paid to (portraits, weddings, products, etc…) and there are subjects that interest me personally (mountains, goofy road signs, milk jugs, etc…). I’ve learned to mix the two and let work assignments pay for personal projects by keeping a list of what I want to shoot as I travel internationally as well as around my town.
You may not have thought of starting a long term project. Most of us don’t because our photographic interests change over time, more quickly as we start to dabble in photography and learn new techniques. We are all familiar with the Project 365, where the idea is to take a photo a day for a year. Think of this as a Project 365, but spread out of 5, 10, 40 years. Your goal is not to shoot regularly, but to shoot your given subject over and over and over, then compile the images tell a story.
Pick a subject(s)
Start with a mental list of subjects that are interesting to you and especially ones that you find in multiple locations. As with most personal photography projects, the key is to make it interesting to you so it’s always at the tip of your mind. Creating a long term project based on what your friends want, from my experience, doesn’t work as well because interest in the subject tends to wane. This project has to be for you. If others click with your subject and like it as well, all the better.
You can pick a subject that is in one location and shoot it in different light, over the course of time. This works well for structure or landscape photos. Picking an area near the urban environment will show change over time. You can also shoot in different seasons or weather conditions and this works if the subject is close to where you live so you can visit it often if particular light is found on a given day.
You can pick a subject that is the same in multiple locations. While traveling from continent to continent, I started to notice eggs are packaged in nearly identical containers no matter where I went (except the USA, so far). Peru, Nepal, Australia, Morocco….different eggs, same container and quantity. Some shots I took were quick snaps. Some were more thought out. Some other subjects to help with your creative process include:
- Cars
- Bridges
- Clocks
- Money
- Cats and Dogs
- Signs
- Markets
- Religious Structures
- Numbers
- Your Favorite Hobby (besides photography)
The list goes on and I’m sure you can make your own. The idea is to find something you like and look for it when you travel down your local roads or across the world. Remember, the idea here is long term. You’ll be collecting these images for decades so you don’t have to find them all this coming week.
Map it out
If you’re the planning type, map out where you can find your subject(s) and keep it around. Maybe you picked cathedrals. Find local examples, if there are any, and then create a map with the location of some prize structures you really would like to see. I believe in both having a plan and in letting chance play a part. The map will let you know where you would like to go but you should also be open to driving past a cathedral where you weren’t aware any existed.
Finding your subject(s) and over time, you can make plans to acquire the photos you are looking for. It’s also a good visual reminder if you happen to unexpectedly be heading to, say, New York on a business trip or for a friend’s wedding that only 30 minutes from your hotel are some of your prize photos waiting to be added to a collection.
Write it down
There are studies showing how much more effective people are at obtaining goals by performing the simple act of writing them down. Use a computer, a piece of paper or the back of a napkin. Use what works for you and write down your subjects. Review the list often when you are waiting for a plane, sitting at the dentist office or have an extra moment while the police officer writes you a speeding ticket. In order to review the list regularly, you will need to…
Keep the list with you
This is where paper works better than computers, although you can certainly do both. A scrap of paper will fit in any billfold or purse and will travel with you. When you are feeling rudderless and not sure what to shoot, that list, when kept with you, can kick start some creativity. Maybe the subject isn’t right at hand, but reviewing it will get you thinking in the right direction. Make multiple copies of your list and keep one in your camera bag, top drawer at work and taped to your bathroom mirror at home.
Just start
“The journey of a thousand photos begins with one click.” – Probably Not Confucius
Create a folder on your computer. Right now. It’s not hard, I’ll wait while you do it.
Wait….are you at work? Maybe you should wait until you get home and create the folder. I think you know what to do with it; label that sucker with your subject. Create a folder for each subject and as you snap images along the path of life, drop them into the folder. Make sure to give the files some sensible name, like the location of the subject. You can also stuff the IPTC data of your image with other information, such as how you found the subject, weather conditions or anything else you want to tag on.
Even if you don’t have a photo of your subject worth of dropping in the folder, create the folder and keep it visible. Put it in your Favorites on a PC or the Places (In Finder) on your MAC. Keep them there in front of you.
Realize you’ll likely delete your first attempts by the end
Have you ever gone back and checked out photos you shot maybe 20 or 30 years ago? Or if you’re starting out, maybe just last year? We all go through the, “I thought THAT was a good shot?” blues at times so don’t sweat it. It’s part of the evolutionary process of art and just being alive. As you add images to the folder, don’t worry too much if they are good enough for the future. You’ll know when you get to the future and can simply move them out of the folder. Cut yourself some slack, this is supposed to be a fun project just for you.
Allow for change
Along with deleting your first attempts, allow your subject matter to change over time. Maybe you will create nested folder inside your first folders and ‘Cathedrals’ will contain ‘Crosses’ and ‘Architecture’. Or maybe it will spin off the other direction as you take interest in other religious buildings and instead nest ‘Cathedrals’ inside of ‘Places Of Worship’ and add other folders for ‘Mosques’ and ‘Temples’ and so forth. Let your interest grow. Harddrives will only be getting bigger, you’ll have plenty of space.
Let it be known
Ah, social media. It can be a boon for those of us looking for information from reliable sources who care about us; friends and family. Lean on them and let them know what you’re up to. A simply post such as, “I’m starting a photo collection and I want to shoot all the alpaca farms in the tri-state area. Do you know of any?” Easy. 115 characters. It’ll even fit on Twitter.
One of the best uses of DPS is the ability to connect with like-minded photographers. I’d encourage you to use the forums section here on DPS which can be a wealth of information in a more interactive format. Ask about ideas you have or request some input on where to shoot. Or just search for your intended topic(s) and see what others have said.
—-
Long term personal photography projects can be a lot of fun when looked back upon decades from now. But you have to start today in order to build the inventory and memories to share down the road. I’m pretty sure the real Confucius would agree.
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
How To Design And Shoot A Long Term Photography Project
Focus on Piper Mackay ~ Africa in her Heart
Piper Mackay, a California-based photographer, and I first met about a year ago via social media. When I first saw her images of Africa, I immediately recognized her passion. It’s the same passion that drives many of us to capture the world with our camera every day. Her love for Africa resonates in her work. She kindly took the time to answer a few questions for Digital Photography School readers. Whether you have actually visited these far-away places or have just dreamt about them, I urge you to visit Piper’s website. As you follow her adventures, you will experience the beauty of Eastern Africa through her lens.
- When and how did your passion for Africa and photography start?
I’ve had a passion for Africa for as long as I can remember. In 2004 while going through a painful life experience, I decided to do the one thing I had dreamed of for a long time — take a trip to Africa. It was magical and I fell in love with the people, wildlife and continent from the first moment my feet touched down on its rich red soil. I actually signed up to go with the Sierra Club and not with photographers. Prior to that I had never really owned a camera other than a disposable one. I received a list of recommendations on what to bring on this trip and the list included a 300 mm lens. I simply walked down to my local camera store and purchased the Canon 10D, one of the first digital cameras, and a 75-300 mm canon lens. With my first semi-professional camera in hand and only a few lessons on how to use it, I began to capture what I was experiencing. This was the calling to pursue one of the deepest passions I have ever felt. I returned to Los Angeles with a new perspective, a new passion and new possibilities. I returned to Africa two more times in the next five months and made the decision to purse photography and my dream to live part of my life in Africa.
- What is your favorite location?
I think it would be hard to narrow down my favorite place to just one location. My work is focused in Eastern Africa, which is my favorite area on this planet. The Masia Mara and Amboselli are my favorite reserves for photographing wildlife in Kenya. The Omo Valley in Southern Ethiopia is my favorite place to photograph tribes and indigenous cultures.
- What is your favorite subject to shoot now?
The tribes of the Omo valley — they have captured my heart. Right now I am working on a long term project in the Omo Valley. A project that I hope will help bring awareness and support so the tribes can to continue to live freely on their land. Drastic change is coming to this region — dams, roads, bridges, sugar farms and factories, and cell towers are under construction. The largest change is the Gilbe III Dam which is due to be completed towards the end of 2013. This major construction project will forever change their ancient ways of life if the government is not successful in removing them from their land first.
- Many of our dPS readers will want to know what gear you use and what you pack for such an adventure.
I am a Canon shooter. When on Safari I shoot with my 1D Mark III and 7D bodies, 500 mm, 70-200 mm, and ¼ extension. When I am photographing tribes and indigenous cultures, I mainly use my 5D Mark II because of its full frame sensor and also the 1D Mark III. For lenses I use the 16-35 mm, I like to shoot with a wide angle, get up close to my subjects and include a dramatic background. I also use the 70-200 mm, two Canon speedlite 580EX, and pocket wizards. The unbelievable thing is that it all fits in my Kiboko 30L bag by Gura Gear except for one of my flashes. I may not be able to travel light because I am usually photographing both wildlife and cultures on the same adventure, but I can be as compact and organized as possible. I also carry a Macbook pro and 2-3 LaCie Rugged T drives. I back up daily and keep the drives separately just like having off site back up at home. One stays in my bag or on me at all times. The other drive stays in a vehicle, with my guide, or where I am sleeping.
- What is the one item, not photo related, that you would never travel to Africa without?
A small medical pouch containing cold and flu medicine, cough drops, antibiotic ointment, hand sanitizer, aspirin, sleeping aid, antibiotics and antimalarial meds. There is nothing worse than being sick and tired on location, especially in a very remote area. This would apply anywhere I travel and not just Africa. I also never leave home without a couple of power bars with a plug in the electrical current of the countries where I will be traveling.
- Could you give 3 tips to someone wanting to experience remote parts of Africa on their own?
Do your research and find the right guide, get to know them by email first if possible. Once in the country meet for coffee, test their knowledge and experience. Have they worked with photographers before? How flexible are they and can they take you to where you want to go and get you there on time? Do you feel safe with this person, can you trust them with your life? Trust your gut. Take time to negotiate a price with them, in most cultures it is part of the relationship building process.
Learn about the local religious customs and beliefs and respect them. Leave your own beliefs at home where they were created – enrich your own life. Be curious, ask questions, show interest and participate with your subjects. Slow down to the rhythm of Africa, put down your camera, enjoy the experience and then photograph the experience.
Be prepared. Things can happen anywhere at any time but, when something goes wrong in a remote location it can be much more difficult to deal with. Have insurance for both you and your gear. MedJet Assist will send in a private jet and medical team and bring you all the way back home. Scan and email your passport and tickets to yourself. Put color copies of your passport in all bags. Email yourself your credit card and contact numbers.
Where do you see yourself in five years?
I love what I do and I hope that I’ll be doing the exact same thing. Traveling to remote locations, photographing wildlife and indigenous cultures. Using powerful images to help shape the view of the world. Images that play an important role in disseminating how cultures and wildlife are coping with the rapid changes happening in the developing world. I plan to continue my tours and share the experience of a lifetime with other photographers. I also want to keep shooting for Getty Images, show my work at exhibits and share my passion through speaking engagements and teaching. I would like to be more involved in collaborating with NGOs working in the areas I am photographing.
Good luck Piper!
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
Focus on Piper Mackay ~ Africa in her Heart
Travel Photography – Do You Ask Permission Before, After Or Not At All?
Traveling and photography go hand in hand for many of us. New sights are a feast for the eyes and those of use with strong photographic intentions love capturing the color and life we find on (digital) film for sharing back home. Or sometimes just for our own enjoyment.
One subject that comes up time and again for me as a photo tour operator is, “Do you ask permission when taking someone’s photo?” It’s one of the touchiest subjects in photography in general. Ask any seasoned street photographer and you will likely receive a resounding, “No”. Same goes for photojournalists. But most of us don’t fall into those two categories. Most of us are just out enjoying the world and aren’t looking to make a name as a world renowned journalist.
So there the question still lingers. For the average photographer, out on vacation (not on assignment), do you ask permission when taking someone’s photo?
My advice when asked? Yes, always. Most of the time. Except…. You see, it’s not black and white for me (my CCD only records in color). I try my best to ask for permission before shooting out of respect. For me it relates to the Golden Rule and I’d appreciate others asking my permission first if the lens were reversed. Whenever practical, yes, ask. I know, I know….it ruins the shot most of the time. But for me, being respectful of people I share the planet with goes further than bringing home that really cool shot (and unless I’m shooting for a Pulitzer, all the shots are just cool shots). I have found that asking for permission, while ruining one shot, will often lead to other shots that never existed before I said hello. Asking also leads to connection with people in the area I’m shooting, rather than treating them all as decorations that sparkle and amaze me. I also don’t mind taking people’s portraits (which often happens after asking for permission as people tend to pose) so it works both ways.
On the flip side, I do take a number of shots without asking, especially in crowded market situations. I take it on a case by cases basis and often ask after the fact, showing the subject the picture. This can also strike up a conversation leading to more knowledge than if I had never engaged. The cobbler pictured here in Bhutan, mending my boot, became far more animated and talkative after I asked for his image. Especially when his friend in across the street saw me taking the photo. It opened up conversation, eased the comfort level between us and lead to other shots.
Other times it is simply not practical. A stone mason at work high on a wall. Traffic police in the middle of an intersection. There are times when the subject is in plain public view and asking would either not be practical nor advisable. In those cases I try to make eye contact and wave a ‘thank you’ or simply walk on.
What about you? How often do you ask permission when traveling? Do you typically ask before or after and has it ever led to more than you anticipated? I’d love to hear your experiences in the comments section below.
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
Travel Photography – Do You Ask Permission Before, After Or Not At All?
Tips to Stay Photographically Focused when Visiting a Large City
Have you ever found yourself in a large city with the overwhelming feeling that you don’t know what to start shooting? This is especially true if you only have two or three days on location. It has happened to me, many times. You try to see and capture it all and you end up with mediocre shots of random things, most of them a bit cliché and without much interest.
There is a cure for that! Whether you shoot a specific genre or not, give yourself an assignment, a theme for the day. It doesn’t mean that you will ignore everything else around you but you will stay focused and end up with a lot more keepers and interesting images than if you tried to capture it all.
When doing street photography it helps to pick a theme or two for your photo walk. Such as people with umbrellas for example.
You like street photography? Photograph girls riding scooters in Rome or people carrying umbrellas in London! You won’t miss any other great action happening in the streets while you’re on your photo walk, but looking for something specific will sure make your day more fun and challenging!
Let’s say you like to shoot architecture. Pick an architectural detail, a repetitive pattern, look for reflections in buildings or contrasting architecture styles. It doesn’t mean that you can’t photograph the Eiffel Tower in its entirety when you are visiting Paris, but your photo album will be a lot more interesting if it includes close ups of the bolts or rivets that hold it together and the repetitive patterns of the steel beams.
The list could go on and on depending on what your interests are. Pick a color, photograph dogs only, people with cool shoes or hats, etc. Think outside the box, try something you would not normally feel comfortable shooting for a day. Your skills will improve and your passion for your craft will get a boost.
To add to the challenge, you can also pick one lens and shoot all day with it. You will save your back and it will force you to look at your environment from a different perspective. My go-to lens is my 24-70 mm but there are days when I don’t want to carry anything heavier than my sweet 50 mil!
Please share your experience with dPS readers in the comment section below. Happy shooting!
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
Tips to Stay Photographically Focused when Visiting a Large City
31 Inspirational Underwater Images
An underwater camera or deep sea camera equipment captures photos of the amazing creatures that live beneath the surface of the water. This collection shows land dwellers, sea life and other sometimes odd creatures that penetrate the wet sanctuary boundaries. The idea is always to see what’s under there and how much imagination we can use while shooting fish, organisms and ourselves.
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
31 Inspirational Underwater Images
Planes, Trains and Automobiles – 28 Views For Inspiration
The movie was funny but people take the design and upkeep of these people movers pretty seriously. Being able to appreciate the lines and curves of these amazing man-made machines is as equally as important as getting the perfect angles to be able to see them in photographs. Translating power, prestige and property can set your work apart from the next guy. Here’s to the collection of art that can fly like a bird, speed through the country side and transport our kids to school.
Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.
Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.
Planes, Trains and Automobiles – 28 Views For Inspiration
Travel Photography and Kids: How to Juggle Yourself in Between
A Guest Post by Prita Sujudi
For an amateur who had just been introduced to photography after having had two kids of seven and six year olds, I often find travel photography can be very challenging as I never had the choice but to carry both camera and kids! But for the love of travel and photography, I forced myself and juggled my way between thinking about aperture and bathing the kids at the same time.
Miles of trip finally comes down to two tricks that actually worked for me.
First, be simple and prepared. Traveling with kids means travel light. It is worthy to know more about your travel destination. Before the trip, I would search images to really get the feel of what kind of scenery I might want to take and hence which camera to use and capture settings to practice. I would leave my zoom lenses at home when I want to capture landscape and take kit lenses instead or bring my point and shoot camera for those days when I have lesser mood.
For Tiger Island trip, I took my kit lenses because I knew I would need wide view. (kids were busy snorkeling).
I knew I would be taking kites flying at the Jakarta International Kite Festival; I mounted telephoto lenses on my DSLR. (kids were kite gazing).
Second, just do it. Moments pass to soon at most times. I personally wouldn’t want to be worried about using advanced settings. Most of the time to be safe and quick I would just use [P] program and only adjust the ISO and White Balance. But even if you haven’t change the setting to adjust the scenery, or at times when you wish you had your tripod or lenses hood in hand, don’t think just shoot. You will be surprised of how your picture can turn out.
I was on a horse ride going down after catching the sunrise in Mount Bromo, East Java. (kids were on their horses following me from behind).
I had forgotten to bring lenses hood and had to accept this beautiful flare ‘incident’. (kids were asleep in the jeep exhausted from the early rise to catch the sunrise).
Close-up photo of a blue starfish. (one kid was in the water, another one sleeping on my lap, we were in a traditional fisherman boat).
I had forgotten to increase the speed of my point and shoot camera. (kids were busy asking about who was Sultan and who was Harem and why was his palace so big).
Have fun, teach your kids the beauty of traveling and nature and never leave your camera behind!
Prita Sujudi is a mom of two kids, who falls in love with photography very recently. She is still in the amateur syndrome – camera swinging on her shoulder everywhere she goes – and is still building her confidence to share her photography with others.
Post from: Digital Photography School’s Photography Tips. Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips, Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras.
Travel Photography and Kids: How to Juggle Yourself in Between
7 Tips from an Avid Photographer Traveling with Kids
That’s me! I could write a book about traveling with kids in general but since you’re all photographers too, I can certainly give you a few tips about making the most of your family vacation when one of your goals is to capture some amazing images.
1. Get up early, let the rest of the family sleep in or enjoy a few cartoons before breakfast while you get the best light to go on your early morning photo walk.
2. Give your kids point and shoot cameras, get them involved in the shoot. Depending on their age, give them a theme for the day, clues to look for, objects of a specific color, etc. You’ll all have fun looking at their pictures later and you may discover a natural talent!
3. Include your children in the pictures. If you are traveling in a different culture, try to capture those candid moments instead of posing them in front of a monument. I’d rather have a picture of my son eating a croissant in a Parisian café than a picture of him posing in front of the Eiffel Tower.
4. Work fast. You can’t expect non photographers (children or adults) to wait patiently behind you to compose the perfect shot every 15 minutes during your vacation. They’re on vacation too. Set some time aside without a camera. Just family time. Memories are all that really matter!
5. Kids can be a great ice breaker when you want to do people or street photography. You are a lot less threatening to strangers if you ask permission to do a street portrait when you have a coupe of kids by your side. This will also open your children’s eyes and make them appreciate different cultures.
Kids can be a great ice breaker when you do street photography. This is one of my favorite street images. I had a baby in a backpack carrier and a toddler by my side. You just have to work fast and not set your expectations too high.
6. If you are traveling with your children and your spouse or significant other, plan for a day just for yourself. Trade off. You get your photo day, he/she gets a fun day too when, in turn, you spend quality time with your kids.
7. Don’t set your expectations too high and be willing to make some compromise. Your kids will not be kids forever and you’ll have plenty of time to go on photo trips on your own after they move out. In the mean time, enjoy every minute, with or without a camera.
Please share your own experience in the comments!
Happy travels!
Post from: Digital Photography School’s Photography Tips. Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips, Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras.
7 Tips from an Avid Photographer Traveling with Kids
The Benefits Of A Reverse Gradient Neutral Density Filter
Sunset and sunrise can be tricky times for photography. While the tone and strength of the light coming from the sun is perfect for warming skin tones and adding contrast, shots taken directly into the sun can be a challenge. We’ve all seen shots like the one below. It was taken at 18mm, ISO 100, f/16 and 1/50th of a second. Gorgeous sunset and I wanted to make sure I could see the driftwood.
Now do some editing in Lightroom, but not wishing to spend a lifetime at the computer, and something like this is the result.
Yes, I could bracket the shot and then work magic in the computer (did I mention not wishing to spend a lot of time there?) but what about when people come into the scene? That’s when a Reverse Gradient Neutral Density filter is worth more than its weight in gold. What is this filter of which I speak? It looks like this.
Can you see the difference between this and a typical gradient neutral density filter? For those who might be scratching their heads, this filter is three stops darker in the middle and then very quickly fades to clear at the bottom and to one stop dark at the top. This particular filter is a Singh-Ray version I purchased on the suggestion of fellow photographer Jon Cornforth.
This type of filter beats the pants off of the standard gradient tool in Lightroom because it fades in both directions, which is exactly what is required for sunset and sunrise photos, when the sun is close to the horizon. To give an example of the change, here is the same shot above except with the filter in place. A minor amount of foreground Adjustment Brush was used to balance out the light.
A standard gradient filter would make the sky at top too dark while possibly not darkening the sun enough.
Interestingly, these shots were both taken with the same settings. When using a filter like this it is important to meter the light on the foreground objects and then put the filter into place. Different filters will be appropriate for different amounts of light and I have found the 3-stop version to be fairly reliable in a variety of opportunities.
Positioning of the filter is important and is one reason why I chose the Singh-Ray brand. The filters are over-sized lengthwise, making adjustments easier when the horizon is not in the center of the frame. The key with most gradient filters is to use your depth of field preview button to stop down your aperture, thus making the transition zone of the filter easier to spot. Moving the filter while finding this split also helps.
First, the shot with the filter off and the image only adjusted to increase exposure by one stop.
Here is what happens when the filter is too low.
Moving the filter up to be in line with the water is what works best, but in this shot you will see it still keeps the people on the beach too dark.
Now if I take the filter and angle it so it only covers the water as it moves up to the right, this is the result (with just a bit of saturation added to the sky and two minutes spent with the Adjustment Brush to balance the foreground ever so slightly).
While bracketing shots and combining them in the computer certainly has an amount of appeal and works in many cases, using a filter to shape light during capture can often lead to better results in less time. The balance of the equation? You have to buy and carry the filters, which can cost $120US or more.
Post from: Digital Photography School’s Photography Tips. Check out our resources on Portrait Photography Tips, Travel Photography Tips and Understanding Digital Cameras.
The Benefits Of A Reverse Gradient Neutral Density Filter















































































